Happy Holidays from Hannover

A few people have asked if Hannover is Christmas-y these days. Oh, yes. So much so that it’s kind of hard not to get in the spirit. So if you, too, are feeling Christmas-y or desperately in need of some spirit, please read on…

OK, to the tune of “The Twelve Days of Christmas”, here's a list of 12 things that the Weihnachtsman (their name for Santa Claus, literally “Christmas Man”) has given to us, and that we (mostly) wish for you.

On the first day of Christmas the Weihnachtsman gave to me…
Gluhwein
This hot beverage, available just about everywhere this time of year, is more ubiquitous than egg nog and hot chocolate combined, and can be lethal. Essentially red wine mulled with spices and honey, one little glass will make you really merry, really fast, and another will make you drunk, no matter how much you can bench-press.

On the second day of Christmas …
The Christmas Markets
These open air markets, little stalls lined up along entire city blocks, are in every city and even most little towns and neighborhoods. Probably the most popular item to buy here is Gluhwein, but you can also get the usual German fare (sausage, fried dough) and little gifts for all your loved ones. We have seen about five different ones already and their offerings vary in quality from high-end arts and crafts to polyester socks and fake tattoos. Really, one visits more for the atmosphere, which is especially nice after dark. But in true German fashion, stalls close no later than 9 pm, so that the neighbors can get their peace and quiet.

On the third day …
Stollen and Marzipan
These were two holiday type sweet things that I had eaten before moving here, but only begrudgingly, like when there was no chocolate around. But since they originate here, they’re much better. The Stollen is roll-shaped and as dense as a hockey puck. Just a teensy slice of this powder-sugar dusted, buttery, nutty, spicy pastry is a real treat. And Marzipan, which is ground almonds and sugar, really is good, and they stick it in just about everything these days.

On the fourth day…
Zimt
Cinnamon is not only in everything they eat this month—cookies, cakes, drinks, ice cream, yogurt… but also shows up in arts and crafts products and is even featured in local Christmas songs. But the high seasonal cinnamon consumption probably took a dive last week, because the results of a recent study conducted by Germans suggest the toxicity of cinnamon in small children. I heard about this from other people who can read German, and who warned me to lay off the stuff with Leo. But so far, all my Google searches for “Cinnamon-toxic-Germany-kids” have come up with nothing. Somebody I was with also suggested it might just be a Christmas time conspiracy to scare parents. I hope so!


On the fifth day…
Gifts from whom you’d least expect it
Gift giving is obviously a part of this season, and one nice aspect of all this generosity is that merchants give their customers little gifts when a purchase is made. Just today, with Leo, we were given a banana and a small soccer ball. Don’t worry, not enough room in our luggage to “re-gift”.


On the sixth day…
Very little sunlight
Well, this morning the sun was shining (which probably explains my happy mood right now) but the days are SHORT in December, and usually gray. Fernando read on the internet recently that on the day before the Winter solstice, there will be a mere 7 ½ hours of daylight. That means that it is dark until about 8:30 am and is pitch-black again at 4:00 pm. No wonder they need the Gluhwein.

On the seventh day…
Singing
Christmas carols are a really big thing here and some of them sound very familiar, like O Tannenbaum and Stille Nacht. The difference is how seriously Germans take their caroling. They don’t just provide you with the lyrics, but also with the sheet music, so that you don’t screw up and sing in the wrong key (like reading music will help me on this front J )

On the eighth day…
Advent
Maybe it’s just another thing to sell during this season, but no good German home is complete without the prominent advent wreath, which holds four round candles for each of the four Sundays before Christmas; and the Advent Calendar, invariably featuring chocolates behind each of the 24 little paper doors leading up to the big day. I caved in and bought the wreath, which we never manage to light at the right time, but think we can wait on the calendar for another year.

On the ninth day…
Santa’s helpers in blackface
Fernando saw this a couple years ago in Holland, and we saw it last weekend in Potsdam. For some reason, Santa Claus… er… Weihnachtsman, has lots of little helpers that sometimes dress up in black face. Always weird to see.

On the tenth day…
St. Niklaus Day
This comes on December 6th, and it’s a nice tradition for kids. Each child puts a pair of shoes outside the door before going to sleep, and in the morning they find the shoes stuffed with fruits, nuts, and chocolate. Our upstairs neighbor, Mrs. Schwarz, who is enamored with Leo, put a couple of chocolate ornaments in a pair of his sneakers (that happened to be outside our door). It was a nice surprise for him and a yummy snack for me!

On the eleventh day…
The Office/work Christmas parties
Fernando has been to two already. The difference in Germany is that spouses are NEVER invited, even when the party is on a weekend. Fernando and I don’t know who was more surprised—the two of us to learn that I wasn’t on the guest list, or his German colleagues when they found out how they do things in the States. And, yes, the colleagues actually dance with each other all night at these galas, and as Fernando learned, Germans take ballroom dancing very seriously. Maybe it is better I wasn’t there…

On the twelfth day…
Christmas Spirit
OK, time to get a little philosophical. Even with all this holiday spirit surrounding us, I’m not really yet sure what Christmas “means” to Germans. Our German friend and cultural translator, Katja, who lived in San Diego for two years and so knows a bit about Christmas in the States, has told me that Germans think that Americans take Christmas too seriously, as a time for miracles, getting back in touch with loved ones, and personal redemption, à la Scrooge or It’s a Wonderful Life. Yup, that sounded about right to me… So, if a German is commenting on that, then Christmas must be, to them, more about wine, cinnamon, and cozy weather than anything else. But I’m not sure, and who knows if I’ll have time to find out before flying out of here on December 22.

Happy holidays—Christmas, Chanukah, and New Years, to all our family and friends.